Welcome, Guest
Please Login or Register.    Lost Password?

Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut.
(1 viewing) (1) Guest
Go to bottomPage: 123
TOPIC: Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut.
#46852
Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
In the thread where I was describing my colorful custom-made gelatinous cubes (www.dwarvenforge.com/forum?func=view&catid=10&id=46422), I was asked by jgardner44 to do a painting tutorial since he learned I was painting a bunch of resin mushrooms from Grendel. Here it is!

These mushrooms are available directly from Grendel for 8 pounds:



1 set includes 2 unpainted clusters of mushrooms and 2 single mushrooms (not pictured nor advertized on Grendel's web site...). I bought 2 sets from Grendel and therefore have 4 clusters and 4 single mushrooms.

For a time, Grendel's resin casts were cheaper at an online store called Magnetic Display but the prices on both web sites seem to be the same now (not sure if Grendel is cheaper or Magnetic Display more expensive...). In any case, Magnetic Display, unlike Grendel, still offers the resin casts already painted!

There is an error on the Shaman's Fungi web page as it leads to the picture of Treasure Piles. I told Trevor, the owner of Magnetic Displays, about this error and he sent me the appropriate picture of a painted Grendel Shaman's Fungi:



Still, the picture does not include the 2 stand-alone single mushrooms and I don't know if they are included in the Magnetic Display's set. In any case, even though the painting quality is quite poor according to my standards, you can hardly beat its low price! For only 3 pounds more, you have them already painted.
biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 21:41 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46853
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Warnings! There are other techniques and methods to proceed. The following is what I know/what I prefer/what I've done. Feel free to comment!

Step 1

As any resin casts you receive, you should wash it with mild soap diluted with lots of water to remove mold releasing agents. I used an old tooth brush. Rinse and dry.

Step 2

The pieces are cast in 2 parts: mushroom caps & stems. With a hobby knife, cut all protruding resin pieces from around the casts, especially around the caps. You can see the protruding resin pieces under the caps in the picture of the unpainted mushrooms. Remove also all the little sticking pieces of resins at very random places (very common with Grendel pieces).

Step 3

Using sand paper laying flat (abrasive side up) on a table, scrub the bottom of the casts on it until they become even and flat. This step is to provide good stability to the mushrooms.

Step 4

Fill all the little holes in the resin casts left by the numerous air bubbles present during the original resin casting with Green Stuff epoxy putty. Let cure overnight. Dwarf mentioned a product called liquid Green Stuff that would make this step somehow faster. I have never tried this product myself but I will surely use it next time I fill resin holes.

Step 5

Glue the stems pieces with the caps pieces using slow cure (30 min) epoxy. Let glue set overnight. One person could decide to delay the gluing part until after the painting step, to make the painting of the inside parts of the stems pieces easier. But than, holding only the caps in your hands while painting them and trying to avoid damaging the actual paint job would become tricky.

Step 6

Prime the model with 2 thin coats of a spray can primer. This is necessary for having the paint adhere to the resin. I have used Armory's white primer as I wanted the bright colors on the model to be very luminous. I later regretted using white because all the little resin wholes I missed filling with Green Stuff showed up white! I had to tediously paint the inside of each of those holes later 1 by 1. If I had used black primer to start with, the holes would not have shown as most of the colors I planned using were somewhat dark. A simple white paint undercoat applied on the figure on the regions you want to be very bright is often enough.
biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 21:46 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46854
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Second Warning, I might be using somewhat "advanced" techniques for the average mini painter. You don't have to use all my fancy habits to reach results as good/better than me...

I use Vallejo's model color. This paint fits all my preferences and needs. I have all the 220 something colors + the Panzer Aces line, which makes for a very wide range of color choices.



Furthermore, the bottle design makes that I will never have a bottle of paint dry on me again. This is important to me as I plan painting on an irregular basis for the next 30 years and I would have to renew my GW Citadel paint every 3 years if I was still using their products. Citadel's paint, in my opinion, is designed for the casual painter that won't mind all his paint be dried 2 years later, as he will already have given up this hobby at that time. The biggest draw-back for Vallejo's paint (the need to shake those little plastic bottles like crazy before being sure all pigments are resuspended) is also in my mind one of their greatest quality! It is hard to resuspend because it has a LOT of pigments. This means that you can actually paint yellow over black (anyone who has done mini painting knows what I'm talking about) in only 2 coats! I have a second-hand vortex that helps me shake those bottles in seconds for that. Vallejo's model color paint needs to be diluted 1:1 with water prior to use. I use distilled water supplied with Golden's Flow Release additive (around 500:1). I keep 1 micro screw cap tube (1.7 ml each) of each color I have of the pre-diluted 1:1 paint so that I can have access to paint ready-to-use faster!

biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 19:52 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46856
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Now, the fun part: painting!

(I don't have pictures for the early steps of this project, sorry)

Step 7

Apply 2 base coats of Violet (Vallejo 047) in all the recesses of the mushrooms caps. Let dry a few minutes.


Step 8
Dry brush (read the very very very numerous tutorials available on the net if you don't know what dry brushing is) over the violet with Pink (Vallejo 040).

Step 9

Apply 2 base coats of Brown (Vallejo 143) on the spherical irregular mosses. Use an old brush here as those tiny recesses are very unforgiving for the sharp end of new brushes. Let dry a few minutes.

Step 10
Dry brush over the Brown with Golden Yellow (Vallejo 016).

Steps 7 to 10 are done first because dry brushing is messy! Doing these steps in the beginning allows any region receiving unwanted paint to be covered in later stages!

Step 11

Apply 2 base coats of a dark grey (Vallejo Panzer Aces 306) on all the remaining exposed parts of the mushrooms. This step is trickier as you don't want to cover the previously painted regions. Also, this very dark coat will serve 2 purposes: (1) give a dark greyish feel to the mushrooms & (2) serve as black-lining. Black-lining is a painting technique that enhances the details & contrasts of painting minis (more on that later). Unlike in prior steps, this step would benefit a lot from the use of a brush with a very sharp end to control precisely where the paint is applied. Don't use and damage such a brush for rough base coating & dry brushing!

Step 12

Apply 2 base coats of White (Vallejo 001) on all the "warts". Make sure to leave a dark grey outer ring on all the warts; It enhances the contrast between the warts and what is around it by leaving a black line between 2 colors (this is the black-lining technique). The white from this step will allow a very bright color to come "alive" in a subsequent step.

Step 13
Dry brush the mushroom stems with a bluish light grey (Vallejo 059).

Here's what your mushrooms should look like after this step:



Step 14

This step uses the layering/highlighting technique. Dilute bluish light grey (Vallejo 059) 1:3 in water with a few drops of Golden's Acrylic Glazing Liquid (Satin). Such a dilution allows the paint to be applied very thin while allowing the color underneath to show through. Without a glazing medium, pigments would have a harder time to be applied evenly and would form clumps. Also, the water in the applied paint while drying would leave "circles" of dried paint on the outer edges. Apply highlights of light grey over the dark grey area while leaving a thin line of dark grey between the light grey and the violet and between the light grey and the brown (black lining technique again). Applying several coats at the same places (while waiting for a few seconds for the paint to dry in between) of light grey highlights allows less of the dark grey to show through. As painting minis is all about contracts, do several application of light grey right beside the very edge of the black lining. Finally, to enhance perspective, apply more light grey on the surfaces on the top of the mushroom and less on the sides (to mimic lighting from the top).

I think I need to improve on my layering technique:

biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 21:52 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46857
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Step 15
Apply 2 base coats of Magenta (Vallejo 042) on the warts. The white undercoat makes the magenta very bright and makes those mushrooms say: "Eat me and you'll die".

Step 16
Apply 2 base coats of dark grey (Vallejo Panzer Aces 306) on the rocks.

Step 17
Apply 2 base coats of beige (Vallejo 008) on the skulls (I hate painting skulls and there's too many of them in Grendel's and GW's stuff for no reasons...).



Step 18
Dry brush the rocks with light grey (Vallejo 059).

Step 19
Apply 2 base coats of dark green (Vallejo Panzer Aces 333) on the base. This color is my best attempt at mimicking the painting scheme of the Cavern Set. I had to use a very old brush here to force green paint in all the little holes primed white and this is where I regretted the use of a black spray primer. It is very bad for the bristles of brushes to paint while holding the brush vertically and bumping it repeatedly against the surface hoping that bristles get into the small holes.



Step 20
Dry brush the base with light green/beige (Vallejo 115) to finish mimicking the Cavern Set painting scheme.

Step 22
Paint the eye sockets of the skulls with dark grey (Vallejo Panzer Aces 306).



Step 23
Apply 2 base coats of beige (Vallejo 008) on the skulls again to repair from the base and eye socket work.

Step 24
Highlight the most protruding parts of the skulls with very light greyish white (Vallejo 151) using glazing medium to give more depth to the skulls; I'm not sure this step was necessary after all.



Step 25
Apply a wash over the skulls using a 1:2 dilution of Vallejo's smoke paint (Vallejo 181) to make them more dirty. This is the only wash I've used on this project. It normally involves diluting a paint with water until is has the consistency of milk; up to 1:6. The liquid flows into recesses and deposits more pigments there while barely affecting the colors on the protruding surfaces. This time, I used the "smoke" paint which is a ready-made wash that contains various clumps and solids on purpose, which gives a dirty appearance to the covered surface. I was very surprised at the very quick and very appealing effect to me!

biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 21:29 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46858
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Step 26

Varnish! You don't want all this painting work to go to waste after repeated touchings from fingers full of Cheetos from enthusiastic players! I have not done that step yet as it was raining today in Boston but I plan doing 2 thin coats of a spray can glossy varnish. I usually use matte varnish for produsing minis with a more "realistic" appearance but, as in this specific case, I want these mushrooms to be glossy, as if they were full of poisonous moist!

I present you my painted Grendel's Shaman's Fungi (2 Sets):



&

biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/05 21:58 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46861
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Thank you for the tutorial! These are beautiful mushrooms with a wonderful look for underground cavern fungi. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through your method.
jgardner44
Please produce more ice, lava, and elevation tiles
Ogre
Posts: 679
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male Location: Twin Falls, Idaho Birthday: 09/11
The administrator has disabled public write access.
12x cavern ks sets
6x lava river ks set
5x lava cavern ks sets
1x wicked cavern ks set
1x stalagmite cavern set
12x hellscape #1sets
10x hellscape #2sets
2x resin ice cavern sets
6x gametile ice cavern sets
4x ruins sets

Hoping for more lava and ice tiles in the future!
 
#46862
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Good job on that tutorial. A very scientific approach to it which I like.
Still, I'd recommend to switch step 1 and 2 from the first tutorial part of preparing the mushrooms. Remove the excess first, then wash up the resin.

Concerning the comments on the GW paints it was partly true for the old colour range from Citadel. You had to drop in a couple of water drops once every 6 months for them not to dry out.
The new Citadel range was revamped totally. There are also colours with a lot of pigments in order to get a good base on top of the undercoat in even one go (there is even a white which does the trick on black undercoat). Those new Base colours need not even be diluted with water anymore if you don't want to although you still can.
Anyway, not every GW hobbyist stops playing after 3 years, au contraire. I am 20 years into the hobby and still running...

- Dwarf
Dwarf
Orc
Posts: 247
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male Location: Germany Birthday: 09/23
The administrator has disabled public write access.
R&P(x3), Room(x3), Ruins (x3), WA, WA 2, WA 3, ABS, CS(x3), CPS, CataSet(x3), CRW(x2), CLS(x4), CCS, RotA(x3), ABS 2 (x4), RotA 2(x2), DoE, DoE WA, DoE R&P, MBS(x4), MBS2(x2), Ice Caverns(x3), Fantasy Floors
 
#46869
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Dwarf,

I stand corrected! I agree that Steps 1 & 2 should be inverted and that's what I probably did. Also, I did not notice that the line of Citadel/GW paints had been changed. My old bottle of "lich purple" is now called something like "Xereus Purple" or "Genestealer Purple", whatever these colours are... I also noticed there a lot more colours available in many categories (base, shade, layer, glaze, dry, etc...). One thing that did not change though, the love of GW toward silly names!

I notice that the new paint pot design has a clear lid that does not seem to screw on the pot but probably snaps on it. In your experience, how good of a job does that pot do in preventing evaporation/drying of the paint inside?

I remember, back when I was a kid, painting with Citadel paints and dipping my brush directly into the pots. Is that recommended and/or feasible with the new line of paint? Also, I think I remember that the "foundation" line of paint had a lot of clumps and was very impracticable to paint with . Am I right to remember that adding water directly into a foundation paint pot is a bad thing to do? Can we add water to the new line of paints available?

Regarding liquid green stuff, is this a type of material that forms a thin film of material over holes while drying , making them invisible once painted over? Does it fill the whole volume of holes and than become solid with time? Is it an epoxy?

Even though one could say you are biased toward GW products ( ;-) you work for them I understand), I find it very useful and friendly from you to invest of your time to write on forums.

Thanks,

Bio

p.s. By the way, I think you should update your avatar to show your majestic beard!

p.p.s. I'll visit for the first time your beautiful country (Germany) in 3 weeks. I can't wait!
biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
Last Edit: 2012/08/06 20:52 By biowizard.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46870
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
jgardner44,

I'm glad that you like my mushrooms and that you think they would fit perfectly into a cavern because this is where I would want them to be too! Also, am I right to presume that you will probably not try to reproduce painting those mushrooms yourself after seeing the many many steps involved?
biowizard
Minotaur
Posts: 1060
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male thierry.bertomeu Location: Montreal Birthday: 02/03
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
#46872
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Wow!! Amazing work, Bio. Both on the highly detailed tutorial and the stunning end product. When you move back home your gaming group will certainly be pleased with all your new lovely terrain and scenery. Excellent and inspiring work!

I was wondering, what is your opinion of Reaper vs Vallejo paint? So far I have pieced together a small paint collection from various companies but am leaning towards something like yours. However, it is easier for me to find Reaper sets of paint vs Vallejo or GW. Before I pull the trigger on a large set, hearing your opinion (yours too Dwarf!) would be helpful.
Arcarius2001
Ogre
Posts: 936
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male Location: California
Last Edit: 2012/08/06 23:04 By Arcarius2001.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
aka Dwarven Ale on Facebook Old School Gamers, Old School Miniatures, and Fantasy RPG Terrain groups.
 
#46873
Re:Grendel's "Shaman's Fungi" mushrooms painting tut. 2 Years, 2 Months ago  
Games Workshop recently changed their colour range drastically with only one goal in mind. Making painting easier and introducing a painting system for beginners to achieve better results easier.
Since we used to produce our paints in china those manufacturers simply sold our paints to other sellers under a slightly different name (hence the similar names from other paint producers...). So we switched to an UK manufacturer and made sure the names are all our own intellectual property and copyrighted.
The mixture of the paints is thus that they don't seem to dry out as fast as they used to be, although I have to admit that long-term tests are not available yet since those colours are around 3-5 months old.
The old foundation paints used to clump when they got a little older, but I haven't noticed that on the new paints, not even on the base colour range which is the new foundation range. And you still can dip the brush into the pot or into the recess under the lid. Still, I recommend to dilute the base range a little with water or even better with the Lahmian Medium. This medium is basically paint without colour pigments and doesn't have the surface tension of water thus your diluted paint won't dry as fast on the edge of the paint. Of course there is no sense in adding water to the shades and glazes. The lid of the pots has a clear top in order to be able to identify at once which colour is inside from the top view of the pot.
Liquid green stuff is basically green stuff but in a more liquid form, made for filling in holes that sometimes exist between parts of miniatures due to the casting process. Especially in larger miniature kits sometimes some parts don't fit exactly.
Regarding all painting beginners, I can only recommend taking a look at the new 'How to paint Citadel miniatures' painting guide. It is really excellent with step by step explanations and really large pictures. It is also a complete new way to show beginners how to paint since it includes a 90 minute DVD SHOWING how to paint.
I have been working for GW for nearly 15 years now and I still think it's the best company I could have chosen. Still, when talking in my free time or in these forums I still have my own opinion and can AND will voice it even if it means putting a GW product in an unfavourable light. Taking time to explain some hobby aspects thus is my job and I do it with fervour also in my free time :-)
And one day, I will find out how to put up a picture of me as an avatar.

Are you coming to northern germany during your trip? Maybe we could meet?


- Dwarf
Dwarf
Orc
Posts: 247
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Gender: Male Location: Germany Birthday: 09/23
The administrator has disabled public write access.
R&P(x3), Room(x3), Ruins (x3), WA, WA 2, WA 3, ABS, CS(x3), CPS, CataSet(x3), CRW(x2), CLS(x4), CCS, RotA(x3), ABS 2 (x4), RotA 2(x2), DoE, DoE WA, DoE R&P, MBS(x4), MBS2(x2), Ice Caverns(x3), Fantasy Floors
 
Go to topPage: 123